… ornamented garment began to be called a “waistcoat” which was made of two or more layers of heavy linen padded together and quilted. It was worn with a short basque that had eyelet holes into which hose were laced. (Portrait: Early in the 16th century, women dressed as men …
…in the volume and body of the garment, it could now also be done with glamorous decoration. Women were imitating men, who had been wearing since Medieval times structured garments called “cotte, gambeson, doublet, pourpoint” and other terms. (Extant garment photo: 1490’s Gambeson)
…stiffened to support the weight of the skirt. The skirt could therefore be made much larger and heavier. This larger overall silhouette made the individual look bigger and more important. (Painting: 1490’s stiffened bodices)
… the innovation of separation of the bodice and skirt, rather than one whole draped garment laced on to the body. With this, tailors were able to focus separately on top or bottom. (Painting: 1490’s overdress allowed separation of bodice and skirt)
… the padded under armor for men that influenced tailors though to develop an outerwear for both men and women. A diagonal basting stitch called the “padding stitch” began the art of corset making. The “Jack”, a stout leather jerkin with attached metal studded sleeves and thigh sections, is believed …
.. wore armored undergarments like the iron “bodies”. Because it was worn only by women of the ruling classes, it is believed these were women of political power who actually needed protection such as armor against people who wished them harm. They were worn with petticoats over them, in thick …
as “The Body” While the iron and steel corset of the Renaissance is believed by some to have begun as an orthapaedic device, examples are more indicative that it was first worn as a female representation of armor, to raise the power and status of women at the time. (Photos: …
…in European countries, the fashionable silhouette became straight and tight on both men and women. This culturally represented a masculine position. (Painting: 1529 Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon in full masculine robes with gorgeous prints, textures, and saturated colors)
…in history, patterns were woven into fabric. Through Venice, Italy, Europe imported Oriental silks and velvets, with intricate designs and weaves. This made Italy a central “power” of “fashion” at the time. (Portrait: beautiful designs like the favorite pomegranite were woven into rich fabrics with deep colors in the late …
….is credited with the invention of the “busc”, the first artifically added supports to the body. Spain is credited with the “farthingale”, the first artifical aid to a skirt. It is said that Catherine of Aragon brought these two fashions to England, while Italian wars with the French kings Charles …
