The hairstyle will tell you whether it’s an early or late bustle…

.. Hair in the 1870’s was soft, with ringlets and braids.  It had a vertical orientation and was piled vertically high to hold the bonnet which was precariously tipped forward.  It was left to fall artistically and arranged to be romantic and alluring.  This was one of the biggest eras for wearing false hair; extensions, pads, wigs, and braids and plaits.

Hair of the 1880’s was tamped down, coiled, and neatly piled on top of the head.  If it was curled, the curls were tight and tightly to the head.  There was some “frizz” along the face to soften the severity, but it was not nearly so “romantic”

(Hairstyles: (left) 1874; (right) 1883)