Victorian high fashion designer Charles Worth..

.. in Paris (discussed in detail earlier this summer during the “mid-Victorian” era section) was leading the bustle styles and the use of fabric and trims.  Designing for key fashion influencers such as French, English, and Russian royalty throughout the mid to late Victorian era, the Worth House of Fashion in Paris set the trend for all to follow.

(Photos: House of Worth day dresses (left) 1874 and (right) 1883 show how the French designer elongated the bodice and fit it closer to the body.  While the draping appears to be the same, in reality the early bustle era shaping was done by fabric and trim, while later there was some serious carpentry making the shape.)