The hourglass silhouette..

became the ideal early in the Victorian era.  By the 1850’s, the wide shoulders from the “Bertha” neckline, combined with the huge width of the hips with the crinoline hoop, meant the only thing remaining to get the desired silhouette of the era was to bring the waist in to be as small as possible.

(Portrait:  The Robinson sisters of 1848 in the most current fashion of the day)