.. to make “Cardinal’s Purple”, which was really scarlet.  It became the “new Purpurea” worn by royalty and elites. (Portrait: Leopold Medici in “Cardinal Purple” in the mid 1600’s.. really red)

… or mollusk based, the big breakthrough came when Mayans discovered the cochineal insect that could be ground to make crimson red dye. This red was so valuable the Spanish conquerors took it from the Mayans. (Photo: Mayan woman today weaving with cochineal dyed yarn)

… the grades of dyes and regulated the market.  Spain controlled the trade of cochineal, another key dyestuff (to be discussed in detail). The 17th century would see world trade of dyes with extensive legislation created in most countries which protected growers and users, and set the standards of quality. …

.. where indigo and other dye materials were shipped back and forth between Pisa, Florence, London, and ports of France. Venice was the distribution center for saffron, a crocus type plant that gave bright yellow.  Italy imported saffron at the time, but would later learn how to grow and market …

.. was Indigo, another plant based dye that yielded deep blue.  Early on, shipping trade centers like Venice dealt in dyestuffs and fabrics as a central distribution point. (Sketch & Photo: Indigo. To be discussed later)

.. and awareness in the Renaissance brought exotic colors from the Orient and Europe – and later from America. Trade routes across the Gobi Desert and from China to the Mediteranean had dye sources moving all over the world. Things like walnut shells, oak bark, pomegranite flowers, and sumac were …

… continued well into the 16th century.  It was of the Murex shellfish, obtained by Phoenician sailors who trolled the coastlines for royalty. First used on wool, its reds, blues, purples, and violets were available to those who could afford it.  Purpurea, a plant root, was discovered as a fine …

.. as well as Brazilwood which gave coral, red, pinks, and purples – all cheap! As in this 16th century tapestry, individual fibers were dyed using different plant sources, and then woven to great effect.  This includes Woad (blue), Weld (yellow) – blended together for greens, and Walnut (to temper …

… Asia Minor were used to make purple, and then the Italians discovered Woad.  Depending on its application, Woad could make a very deep blue, almost purple, to a lighter blue/green. (This will also be discussed in detail in future posts). (Portrait: Italian woman 1530 in gown presumed to be …

.. as early as the 4th century AD, roots from the Madder plant were used in many ways and situations to make reds to purple.  (We will come back to discuss Madder when we get to the 18th and 19th centuries). (photo: the Madder plant, Rubia tinctorum)