… established by European powers in tropical climates. Spain imported it from its colonies in South America, and it was a major crop in Haiti and Jamaica during the Spanish colonial period. The Virgin Islands had thriving plantations, but France and Germany outlawed the import of indigo in the 16th …
Category: Fashion History Blog
The Romans used indigo
… for painting, medicine, and cosmetics. It was imported to the Mediteranean from Arab merchants. It was rare in Europe, where the chemical “twin” dye woad (“Isatis tinctoria”) was used instead. Late in the 15th century, Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama found a sea route to India, which led to …
Ancient purples often came from…
… a mixture of “indigofera” indogo and dibromoindgo (a red from the Murex sea snail). Combined they made Tyrian purple, and light exposure during the dying process converted the dibromoindgo into blue hues known as royal blue or hyacinth purple. (Photo: processed indigo chunks from the “indigofera” plant)
In Europe, woad…
… a plant containing similar chemicals was used for dying things blue, but these and others had low concentrations which make them difficult to work with and the color is more easily miscolored by other chemicals which often leads to a greenish tinge to the blue. The “Indigofera tinctoria” consistently …
Today! Big Show!
The Buffalo Gals are performing “Who Wore What Where”, an historic fashion show about Pioneering Women, at Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel in downtown Cody, Wyoming today. No charge, open to public but VERY limited space so get there about 6:45 pm. See Ya!
Indigo actually came from different…
…plants through history, but most came from the “Indigofera” plant genus, which are native to the tropics and specifically from India. Another species called “strobilanthes” from Japan’s Ryukyu Islands and Taiwan produces indigo. Dyer’s knotweed (“polygonum tinctorum”) was the most important blue dye in East Asia until the “Indigofera” was …
Indigo started in Egypt…
… and India and was made from the leaflets and branches of a shrub. It prevailed for blue color because it didn’t wash out from any fabric, and because it didn’t fade in light. It was the most popular dye until the middle of the 19th century. (Botanist’s sketch of …
The first fabric dyes came from plants, minerals, or…
… animals. In other words – from nature. Until the 1850’s, only natural dyes were used around the world. The predominant dyes used in ancient times were: Indigo – blue/purple from the leaves of dyer’s woad herb “isatis tinctoria”, and the indigo plant “indigofera tinctoria”; Alizarin – red from the …
We have been talking about dyes…
… because they were a key reason that the Early Victorian Fashion Era turned into the Mid Victorian Fashion Era in about 1862. We’re almost to the 19th century… hang on. First – and 1858 daguerrotype of a CAT to find out if anyone is paying attention – and to …
Dyes were proportionate to class..
… and status. The purples and scarlets were for nobles and royals in the ancient records. Later, wealthy would wear brighter hues, while low class dressed in “natural” colors. Slaves in the US wore greys, greens, and browns. (Portrait: 1756 Mrs. Tourner in Indigo)