… it was the direction of the bones and supporting inside bones that were important, so less seaming was used, and more boning.  These later stays were often covered in plain silk or cotton and were very stiff but subtle in form.  They were shaped using a steam iron. (Extant: …

…the French.  French stays had more subtle shaping.  In the first half of the century a long, loose robe was worn open in France to show off the decorative stays beneath. (Extant: 1770 French robes a la francaise)

…were decorated and often worn with the dress front open to show them off.  Beautiful fabrics such as silk or brocade with embroidery were used as decorative features. (Photo: 1740’s decorative stomachers)

…there was variation in the methods of lacing front and back.  Side lacing was used for pregnancy.  When laced in front, the opening was wider on top and tapered to the bottom. (Featured: Modern reproduction side lacing maternity stays.  Below: 1765 extant nursing stays)

…by hand, and bones were often laid one next to the other within 1/8″ in rows, demanding quite the craftsmanship as well as hand and arm strength.  The making of stays was reserved for men because of the strength required, and also for political reasons due to tailor’s guilds. (Extant …

…either half-boned or fully boned, and never without boning. (Extant stays: In the 1760’s boning was intricate and specific even in decorative stays like these from France)

…technical skill held to a high standard.  There were now extra shaping bones arranged inside including curved pieces at the bust to give more roundness there. (Extant stays: 1750 boning was more complex than early decades)

…stays were covered with decorative fabric that didn’t always match the construction seaming. (Photo: 18th century decorative stays)

…laced in front.  The way they were put together was still rather “rough” which is how one can tell stays from the early 1700’s from those of the mid to later 1700’s. (Photo: rough construction of stays 1680 and 1720)

…of architecture and furniture were repeated in clothing.  The stays were responsible for the slender silhouette as they straightened out and tapered down the waist. (1710 Queen Anne furniture and bodice)