…a conical top created by stays and hoops to the “pouter pigeon” look with chest thrust forward and the hips back.  this early version of the 100 year later Edwardian “s Monobosum curve” was created by the use of bustle pads and false bums worn under petticoats. (Sketches: 1780’s stays …

… it wasn’t the number of panels that was making the shape, but the orientation of bones.  Bones were whale baleen.  As a result, some stays were reduced to 3 panels (a front and two backs) with very complex boning even when lightly boned. (Sketch:  Strategic bone placement for shaping …

… took a slightly different shape.  The 1760’s were strapless and had only a small functional opening at the top of the center front, perhaps to accommodate nursing.  These simple, commoner stays were constructed from linen.  Extant stays have been of brown linen lined in white and lavender wool satin …

…became popular.  This decorative element would show under the open-front mantuas that were popular at the time.  Typically this type of stays was flat lined to a decorative fabric like silk brocade.   (Sketch from Doyle’s “Waisted Efforts”:  1730’s-1740’s stays)

…stays had become their own garment and they were being constructed in worsted wools, linens and leather for common people as well as the beautiful silk preferred by the wealthy. (Extant linen stays for the common woman of the mid-18th century)   Excerpt from “Reconstructing History 2008”, available at your …

…(Direct excerpt from “Reconstructing History 2008 Copyrighted Available from your favorite historical pattern shop”) Since the 1660’s, stays and bodiced gowns without their skirts were practically synonymous  Except for a place to attach sleeves and skirts, stays and bodiced gown linings were the same  in construction.  One would think stays …

.. because they were made at home as well as by professionals.  Boys as well as girls wore them as soon as they were able to walk.   (Extant: girls’ 18th century stays; low class (left) and high class (right)

was less rigid than in France, and the heavily boned bodice was reserved for coronations, Royal weddings, and high formal affairs.   These, being well ornamented, were most likely worn on the outside of a dress. (Extant: featured and below, 1780’s silk damask English stays)

… or le corps de cour” was a boned bodice of French Court Dress.  When the shoulder and neck were exposed starting in 1680 with the rounded stays, women realized it was a great way to show off jewelry, laces, and other fancy work.  This bodice was worn with straps …

… short, while the back remained long. (Extant: approximate 1785 stays with back longer than the front)