..ever so slightly, and became rounder. (1868 Gown)
Author: Silhouettes
As the 1870’s approached…
It still had the shape of the large, ovoid crinoline hoop 1868-1870, but the draping was piling up in back, and the skirt was losing the round fullness in the front.
French Designer Worth had introduced the..
.. draped overskirt. His underskirts or linings were in a contrasting color, which was revealed when the draping was pulled back over the rear end. This was considered the “soft bustle” fashion silhouette which lasted in various forms from 1867 to 1875. (1868 gown with contrasting colors when the draping …
Even into the 1880’s, the “new” fashions…
… of high style and Court dress looked very familiar, although the designers of France claimed it to be entirely new. (Photos: left 1750 silk Court dress with elaborate draping tunic; right 1881 dress Mark Twain’s wife wore to Court)
The complex ornament just wasn’t different enough…
… from the 1860’s style, so Eugenie of France’s designers add much more in the way of structural support – the bustle. (Photo: 1874 Eugenie with the first bustle era)
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The “new” bustle style looked might familiar…
… although Parisian designers claimed it was entirely original. Even the bustle was not original, as 18th century women had worn stuffed rumps and metal wired paniers and bustle like structures very much like those of 1873. The major difference was fabric type, synthetic dyes, the sewing machine, and mass …
Eugenie, now Empress of France again…
… and soon to be wife of the President of the Republic of France, began to add ornament, trim, and frill to the plain smooth princess line of the late 1860’s.
Eugenie hit the fashion world running…
… with her designer, Charles Worth leading the way. He had despised the crinolines, and claimed he had invented the polonaise draping, assuming people in 1873 couldn’t remember fashion 100 years before. (Photo: Eugenie in the long lined Princess seamed look that would become the “natural form” era in a …
Empress Eugenie in 1873 was..
… just out of exile. As the wife of Napoleon III, she had been imprisoned when Napoleon I was exiled in 1871. Even out of “jail”, she came back to France with the new Princess seam that gave her the smooth, single lined look in front, with fullness in back …