.. had a “sheath” or “cuirasse” bodice line that was even longer than the early ones.  It now had no waist seam and the bodice and skirt were cut in one – unlike any other garment previous which was always at least two pieces – bodice and skirt. (Photos: left, …

… Princess Alexandra of Russia who looked beautiful in the long, slim line of the “Natural Form” era with its fitted bodice, expensive draping, and beautiful fabrics.  At the peak of her political power, Alexandra gave the name of this shape/Silhouette the “Princess Line”. (Painting: Alexandra with her family in …

.. was very expensive as it demanded a high level of skills by the dressmaker to get the body-tight fit, was made of fine fabrics and trims, and was structured much like the corsets of the era including boning and special seaming and reinforcements to hold up to rigors of …

.. as the new, long “armor-like” bodice was called, gave a clear and visual difference between the early and mid Victorian Eras, and what was evolving to become Late Victorian. Sketch:  cuirasse (“curass” or “sheath”) bodice covered the torso, waist, and hips.  This one 1879-80, it started in about 1878

.. even though Queen Victoria of England, for whom the fashion eras from the start of her reign in 1837 until her death in 1902 was the namesake, was good friends with Eugenie of France (Empress, then wife of the President through France’s changing political structure). Eugenie and her key …

… and the “Natural Form” era which only looked good on long, slim, and young women, would be over.  The 2nd “large bustle” era would last only a decade or so.  As with any fashion era, there is no distinct line between one or the other, because just like today’s …

.. was becoming more form fitted, clung more to the hips, and seemed to integrate the skirts into the bodice, although they were still 3 parts: bodice, skirt, drape/tunic.  This “armor like” bodice defined a brief 2-4 year period called “Natural Form”.

…The other main feature of the style change was the introduction of the cuirasse bodice which dipped front and back extending a little over the hips. By 1880 the soft bustle styles of the 1870s had totally disappeared. See in these fashion plates (left 1875, right 1878) how the bodice …

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.. as it changes.  It is not exactly a black line drawing as we show here because it is in 3 dimensions (heighth, width, length) with subtle variables – but historians can place them through the most distinguishing characteristics. Regard yesterday’s post with drawings of women, and compare to today’s …