… the long, spiring, Medieval lines of fashion had stretched to their limits with peaked shoes, tall hats, and vertical lines. As the 16th century (year 1500) approached, the silhouette broadened and widened. The Renaissance “style” spread from the south in Spain and Italy towards northern European countries. (Painting: 1470 …
Author: Silhouettes
In the late 15th Century in Europe,
..power and political (and so fashion) influence went from Italy to Central Europe, and then to Britain. Each region refined and changed the concept of the individual as pursuing personal success, or as pawns to greater powers. (Sketch: 1483-1495 fashion followed changing power through Charles VIII of England and Louis …
In the 15th Century Renaissance (1400’s)…
…fashion followed Power. Where the Middle Ages were religious, the Renaissance was considered a secular (non-religious) era. Rather than a focus on class and groups, it was a movement praising individualism over the Church in measuring things. (Sketch: Secularism in 15th century Renaissance fashion)
The early waist garment was called a…
… “cotte”, an old French word for any close-fitting garment. (Today the French word cote means “next to” or “rib”). Various garment names were evolved from this: petticoat, waistcoat, etc. When the word “corset” was used, it meant an outer garment, and was not at all associated with the later …
In about the middle of the 14th century..
…when clothes began to shape the figure, it is believed older women who had lost their shape, or other women who did not have much shape, would have worn an “under robe” of a stiffer material and laced it more tightly. By the 15th century, the waist became high, and …
By the end of the Middle Ages, technology had…
…developed metal hooks and eyes and metal points to finish off the ends of braids and cords. These were now being used to lace garments onto the body, rather than just wrapping fabric around or putting it over the head. (Portrait: Anna of Spain in 1616 wearing ornamental metal lacing …
As the Middle Ages progressed..
…woolen textiles were milled and processed in such a way that a garment could be easily cut and molded. Special structural linens “buckrams” were created to provide foundations that could support the exterior garments. With strong support, more subtle detail could be obtained in the outer garments. (Painting: enlargement of …
Newly established rules of manners and style…
…of “Court” drew attention to what a person wore and how they wore it. Details in fashion became important as defining status and position. The Tailor’s Guild was created, developing skillful garment making and new techniques for the manufacturing of clothing. These new methods demanded new types of textiles and …
Dubbed the “Perpendicular Gothic”…
…because of lofty, spired cathedrals, the late Middle Ages was a time of great castles and churches throughout Europe. There came a defined “Court”, where persons of power and political persuasion along with their extended personnel would create courtiers and ladies. (Sketch: “Court” began to define fashion in terms of …
By the middle part of the Middle Ages…
…modes of etiquette were being established. Along with rules for behavior and interaction, came a loose definition of “fashion”. Shapes and contours of fabrics and then garments took on new meaning. Selection and wearing of certain “designs” were used to promote the ambitions of the individual. Fabric had become a …